Magazine B issue 92 %Arabica

■ About the Publication

Amid the waves of numerous brands sweeping the globe, B shares

its perspective on well-balanced brands and uses print media to demonstrate the timeless values of individual brands. Defining a well- balanced brand by four standards—beauty, practicality, price, and philosophy—B offers unique insights and in-depth analysis of one well- balanced brand in one issue every month.

■ About the Issue

Welcome to the 92nd edition of B.

Coffee is widely perceived as a favorite food. This is based on the assumption that the best coffee varies depending on the taste of who is drinking it. Some say that any coffee that gives them a jolt of energy is the best, while others might say a quick cup served right away from a convenience store or an automated coffee kiosk is the best. Whether it’s a slowly brewed cup at home or a blended coffee topped with rich whipped cream, coffee can be perfectly tailored to suit each individual—a unique facet and, dare I say, privilege that only exists with coffee. The multilayered aspects of coffee have gained so much attention after the so-called third wave elevated the status of coffee in the world of gastronomy. Starbucks, Nespresso, and specialty coffee brands all have a role to play here. Just as a higher level of the culinary culture of a country does not mean that street food or fast food loses value, coffee is also diversifying to better serve these different needs rather than compete for ultimate superiority.

B covered Intelligentsia and Blue Bottle Coffee brands in the past, but this issue features % Arabica, a coffee brand that is ideally suited for an era in which the nuances of coffee have gained greater acceptance and appreciation. This Japanese coffee brand, which marked its 10th anniversary in 2023, is also a franchise that inherited some of the specialty coffee DNA. Kenneth Shoji, who founded % Arabica in his 40s, said in a number of interviews that he had been heavily influenced by Starbucks in his 20s. He also said that he was immensely inspired by Intelligentsia and Blue Bottle Coffee in terms of café space and their creative ways of dealing with coffee tools. But % Arabica cannot be said to be a mere copycat of those forerunners. That is because % Arabica has built its brand identity in a delicate, rigorous way—somehow telegraphing the aesthetic of Kyoto into its spaces, signature items, locations, and launching periods.

Kenneth Shoji is at the center of this success story. He is less of a coffee specialist and more of a brand enthusiast/global entrepreneur. He put efforts into formulating each location’s design language and perfecting branded goods, as well as selecting coffee beans and focusing on the quality of the drinks his brand will offer. It’s certainly not an exaggeration to say that certain key characteristics of the % Arabica brand identity come directly from the founder’s personality. In an interview with B conducted in Bali, Shoji said, “Specialty coffee sometimes prioritizes some nerdiness. But I don’t. I just do business in a normal way. The way I make coffee is similar to the way scrambled eggs are made. You just need to get fresh, top-quality eggs and stir them well. You don’t need to describe each and every color and flavor of eggs. It’s just about staying true to the basics.”

Just like that, % Arabica seems to be willing to become a global brand through coffee instead of uplifting coffee as a mystical drink of all drinks. Most pioneer businesses, it seems, are strongly driven by such a down-to-earth willingness. Business mindset tends to get overshadowed by stories about the artisanal attitude and spirit because there are already so many brands that have more or less attained a level of perfection and still introduce upgrades on the regular. But % Arabica demonstrates that the establishment and management of standards can also be part of

the artisanal spirit. As such, I find myself choosing “franchise” over “coffee” to define this coffee brand. I’m looking at the brand as a franchise business, and I hope % Arabica’s journey—which started humbly in Hong Kong and really took off in Kyoto before expanding to the Middle East, the US, and the UK— will continue to pique my curiosity.

Eunsung Park

Content & Editorial Director

■ Table of contents

02 INTRO

08 EDITOR’S LETTER

12 FOURTH WAVE

The new wave of coffee and % Arabica observed by coffee experts

16 AESTHETIC

Aesthetic of Kyoto that inspired % Arabica founder Kenneth Shoji

22 NEIGHBORHOOD

Introduction to Arashiyama and Higashiyama neighborhoods in Kyoto where % Arabica locations have become local attractions

28 OPINION: KOBE LEE

% Arabica’s Global Head Barista Kobe Lee talks about the brand’s philosophy on coffee and people management

34 IDENTITY

% Arabica’s minimal, timeless brand identity that is reflected in brand goods

40 IN THE BAR

% Arabica’s signature drinks and service

46 AT THE ROASTERY

% Arabica Kyoto Roastery & Bakery, a control tower for an exquisite, quality cup of coffee

50 INTERVIEW: KENNETH SHOJI

Conversation between Magazine B publisher Suyong Joh and % Arabica founder Kenneth Shoji

56 A DAY WITH A COSMOPOLITE

Kenneth Shoji’s cosmopolitan life in Bali

64 CUPPING LAB

Luis Urcuyo, green bean buyer for % Arabica, shows his coffee cupping

68 COFFEE FARMS IN BALI

Coffee farms in Batukaang Village, Bali, that supply specialty coffee beans to % Arabica

72 WELLNESS SPACES IN BALI

Alchemy, a wellness brand in Bali that captured Kenneth Shoji’s attention

76 COFFEE TOOLS

Coffee tools used in % Arabica cafés to provide the best coffee experience

86 MOMENT OF INNOVATION

Slayer Espresso, a game changer in the espresso machine market, and its founder Jason Prefontaine

94 COFFEE BUFFERS

Coffee lovers from all walks of life, including cofounder of Deus ex Machina Dare Jennings, share their thoughts on % Arabica

102 OPINION: KEITA AONO

Keita Aono, chief designer of space design consultancy No. 10, talks about % Arabica’s space design philosophy

108 ICONIC STORES

Design studios from different cultures and their iconic designs for % Arabica cafés

124 SURROUNDINGS

Neighborhoods and nearby attractions in Seoul, New York, and London where % Arabica shops are located

130 PARTNERS

% Arabica’s franchise partners in Indonesia, China, and Korea that drive the brand’s global business

136 VISITORS

People from all around the world who visit % Arabica stores in Kyoto and Bali

142 BRAND STORY

A story of % Arabica that started in Kyoto and has grown into a global coffee brand

148 BEHIND THE BRAND

Some interesting facts about % Arabica, as presented by the brand’s founder

150 INTERVIEW: MAKOTO NAKAMURA, ERIKO MATSUDA

Makoto Nakamura, vice president of Asiamix Japan, supports % Arabica and Kenneth Shoji; Brand consultant Eriko Matsuda leads brand management

154 TENANT

% Arabica kiosk locations show the brand’s competitiveness

160 UNDERDOGS

Coffee brands that started in cities with hardly any coffee culture and still gained an international following

163 OUTRO